Calcutta - Bodhgaya

We had a great time in Calcutta, but I have to admit we spent as much time relaxing at cafes and our hotel as we did going out and seeing the city. We needed it though, traveling can be really exhausting after a while. One of the nice things about being in a city that has a lot of tourists is that it's easy to get western style food. Now, I know what you're thinking, I should be sampling the local cuisine. I have and although much of it is too spicy for me, some is very good. I've come to realize that you can enjoy local food, but sometimes also eat familiar food that doesn't make your stomach grumble, growl, or cry out in pain. Yes, I got Delhi belly one day after arriving in India and have been more selective with my food choices since then. (Heather was smart enough to avoid it, I like to learn my lessons through experience).

The most notable thing we did while we were in Calcutta was visit Mother Teresa's mission. There is a small museum that tells about her life story and has some of her personal effects such as letters, a toothbrush, her Nobel Peace Prize, and even a piece of a tube that was used to help her breathe in her final moments. You can also visit her very modest room at the mission and the tomb where she is buried.

It was fascinating to learn about her life and it was very clear that she devoted herself completely to her mission and did a great deal for the poorest people in Calcutta. It wasn't easy for her to spend her life with the destitute, sick, and dying and the "darkness" she experienced is frequently mentioned. She gave everything she had and accepted other people's suffering as her own. She believed she was doing the work of Christ who took on the burden of others' suffering in the same way. All that she did for others was very inspiring, but at the same time I felt sad for her that she did not derive more enjoyment from her life. Even when she was smiling on the outside she still suffered. I only wish that a person who gave so much experienced more personal happiness.

It was with these thoughts that we left the mission. As we did we stopped to chat with some nuns who lived and worked there. The first question they asked us is "Are you Catholic?" I answered them honestly that I was not a Catholic, I was a humanitarian. I know I should not be surprised, but I have to admit that I was hurt a little that they were not satisfied with this answer and immediately began trying to convert me. I know they are Catholic nuns and they were just doing what Catholic nuns do, but it still surprises me that they were not accepting of others who do not share their specific beliefs, especially when there are so many things we can agree on (like their humanitarian mission). It makes me a little sad, but what can I do but accept them for who they are?

We left Calcutta two or three days ago for Bodhgaya, which is the place where the Buddha achieved enlightenment. We previously visited Lumbini (his birthplace) and Kushingar (where he died). We went to Kushingar as a day trip from Gorakpur, I might have forgotten to mention it. Anyway, I think we came to Bodhgaya at the right time because right now is the Buddhist festival of Karama Pa. There are monks EVERYWHERE. We went to the Bodhi tree yesterday where the Buddha became enlightened and we saw just a sea of maroon and gold robes. We were lucky enough to hear some Tibetan throat singing during a ceremony which is quite unique. If you've never heard it before you should listen sometime.

Originally, we planned to stay at one of the many monasteries in town, but they were all completely full because of all the monks that are visiting. After a little searching we found a nice little guest house (and cheap too!) Really, it was just as good as staying in the monastery because it was full of monks too! I made friends with a monk that was staying in the room next to ours. He was just sitting on the balcony and wanted to chat. He was from Nepal and he told me about his monastery (he is the head monk!) It is very difficult to get to. He said first you have to take a car from Kathmandu, then an airplane, then walk for two days. It sounds really cool, I'd love to go there someday. He gave me all of his contact information including his monastery's website in case I ever make it there (http://www.namkhyung.org/).

He also told me about his trip. He was granted a short audience with the Dalai Lama in Dharamsala. He was understandably thrilled about that. I laughed at how he described the meeting. He said that His Holiness the Dalai Lama was like a monkey - in terms of the amount of energy he had. He was able to go from a standing to sitting position (on the floor) in the blink of an eye! My new friend had only the most wonderful things to say about him. In the Dalai Lama's presence he felt only peaceful and happy. We will also go to Dharamsala, but we won't get to see the Dalai Lama. He's busy traveling all over India right now.

We also talked a little about Buddhism. He told me about some of his beliefs and his reasoning, but in contrast to our experience in Calcutta he said that different belief systems work best for different people. The same one isn't right for everyone. I think this is something that makes Buddhism unique, it is more of a philosophy or way of life whereas many other religions claim to be the one true faith. I enjoyed my time with him and I hope to see him again someday.

We've really enjoyed our time spent in Bodhgaya. Besides new friends and the sights (so many temples!) we've thoroughly enjoyed the Tibetan cuisine. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner - it's been great. Since the food and lodging is much less expensive than in Calcutta, we've really been able to indulge a little and eat lots of good food. Maybe we should be saving more for when we're in another big city, but it's okay to eat well once in a while. I'm running out of internet time, but I'll write again from our next stop in Varanasi!